Alex de Campi: Gojira!

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6.2.05 Notes On A Sunday

To Brick Lane, for a friend's birthday lunch. In the five years I have lived in London, this area has transformed itself with breakneck speed from down at heel East End neighbourhood to the new Notting Hill. Its Disneyfication has been so rapid that many who have not seen it choose to dismiss it as a rumour put about by nefarious estate agents. My friend’s sister was aghast when she found out his birthday lunch would be in Brick Lane. She warned him, sotto voce, that there were thirty-something gangs in that area. I can vouch that this is still true - there are indeed gangs of thirtysomethings roaming the pedestrianised streets and converted warehouse malls of E1. The Ironic Hair Squad square off against the Minimalist Brigade in front of retro design shops, while the Vintageers clutch their original Halston bags and sneer at them both for not being "authentic" enough.

The area is so trendy that the dodgy street sellers don't offer white heather or bruised roses "for the lady". Instead they carry four-foot-long pussywillow branches and bundles of peacock feathers. In front of Spitalfields Market, an old Bangladeshi man, raisin-faced and white-bearded, sells bunches of peacock feathers to passersby. He wears a blue knit watchcap, a Prince of Wales plaid suitjacket, jumper, grey sarong, navy socks, white Reeboks. The teal of his jumper matches the eyes of the peacock feathers; I wonder if his wife picked it out for him.

He does a brisk business. One peacock feather, two pounds. Three peacock feathers, five pounds. From where I stand, he is perfectly framed by the fearsome geometry of Hawksmoor's Christ Church, which marks the end of Brushfield Street with all the terrifying finality of the grave. The old man, oblivious, not his God anyway, waves his bundle of feathers in benediction, blessing the wallets of the Sunday crowds flowing from vintage mart to bar to boutique. Christ Church's doors are open, its lights shine warmly, but nobody goes inside. There is nothing to buy in there.

( 10:41 PM )

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